Glues

Using the wrong adhesive is one of the most common causes of problems in a wooden kit. Wood glue will not hold a brass fitting. Cyanoacrylate applied to a planked hull can wick along the grain and stain the surface under varnish. Epoxy gives strength but no working time to reposition parts.

What to use where

• PVA and aliphatic wood glues: planking, deck laying and general timber work
• Thin, medium and thick cyanoacrylates: fittings, metal parts and instant holds
• Two part epoxies: high stress joints, keel and ballast work, bonding dissimilar materials
• Contact and specialist adhesives: sails, cloth and clear parts
• Accelerators, debonders and fine applicators: precise work and mistakes

A working minimum

A wooden ship kit realistically needs a wood glue and a cyanoacrylate. Add epoxy if the model will be sailed, which applies to anything from RC compatible kits, where sealing and shaft bonding matter.

Storage

Keep adhesives cool and sealed, and buy quantities you will use within a reasonable period. Cyanoacrylates in particular degrade once opened.

Common questions

What is the best glue for a wooden model ship?

PVA or aliphatic wood glue for planking and decks, cyanoacrylate for metal fittings. No single adhesive covers a whole build.

Why has my glue stained the hull?

Usually thin cyanoacrylate wicking into bare grain. Seal the surface first, and keep cyanoacrylate away from anything to be varnished.

Which glue for clear parts?

A PVA or a purpose made clear parts adhesive. Standard cyanoacrylate fogs glazing as it cures.